ALTERNATIVE METHODS TO SYNTHETIC-BASED DYEING ON COTTON: A COMPARATIVE SUSTAINABILITY ANALYSIS

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Degree type
Master of Environmental Studies (MES)
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Discipline
Environmental Studies
Subject
Sustainability
Sustainable Fashion
Circular Design
Water
Waste Management
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Copyright date
2024
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Author
Rajesh, Anindita
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Abstract

The fashion industry is currently one of the largest consumers and polluters of water. The most commonly used method of textile dyeing, using synthetic dyes, is extremely water- intensive, and the chemicals used in the production and application of these dyes leach into freshwater sources, posing a threat to both public and environmental health. This research aims to assess and compare two alternative dyeing techniques – plant-based and microbial dyes – by examining their color intensity and their impact on water consumption, waste and the environment. Each method was tested on both non-mordanted and mordanted cotton strips over periods of 24 hours and 72 hours. Photographs were taken of each cotton sample following each dyeing process, and the water remaining after the dye creation and application process was measured. It was found that microbial dyes, extracted from Serratia marcescens cultures, had stronger colorfastness than the plant-dyes obtained from onion peels, beet scraps, and avocado pits. The microbial dye yielded a bright pink color, that did not fade after sterilization, sunlight exposure, and washing, while the plant-based dye yielded a yellow-brown color that exhibited some fading. There was no difference seen between the mordanted and non-mordanted fabrics, so it is therefore recommended that a mordant not be used, to further reduce water and chemical usage within the dyeing process. While plant-based dyes are currently used by several fashion brands, microbial dyes have not been produced on a large scale. With sufficient upfront monetary investments and dedication towards research, companies with varying degrees of sustainability commitments can adopt the use of microbial dyes, using much of the same machinery and techniques currently employed in dyeing facilities. As clothing manufacturers begin to face increasing pressure to evaluate and improve sustainability throughout their supply chain, introducing microbial dyes can help reduce and eventually eliminate the need for synthetic dyes, allowing for a large reduction in a company’s water-consumption and overall environmental footprint. Making this switch will therefore allow for improved water quality and availability for communities surrounding clothing manufacturers.

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Hagan, James
Date of degree
2024
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